1911 ejector install#
Normally the next step would be to install the plunger tube, but to save the hassle the frame I selected featured an integral model, so the next entry will pertain to the installation and fitting of the thumb safety. The ZRTS Ejector for the Sig and GSG 1911-22 pistols is an upgrade over the factory stamped unit. Otherwise you’ll find yourself having to removing the ejector in short order. So why not install the ejector to fitting/blending the beavertail? Great idea-if you know the ejector’s dimensions are appropriately sized to allow the slide to be installed on the frame. Our 1911 Ejector is designed, engineer, and machined in house which gives. Yes, I could have permanently installed it and fired up the dremel and slowly shaved down the back until it was even, but the dremel is how I wound up in this pit-plus it leaves the potential for unequal height between both tangs. Premium Fit is Stealth Arms version of a true drop-in part. When I trial installed the ejector on my Essex frame, I discovered the back of the ejector overlapped the back of the frame, which revealed I removed too much metal from the top of the tang when I was in the blending phase of my installing my grip safety, forcing the ejector to be shortened beforehand. Why wait so long to install the ejector, and where’s the potential pitfall? I know what you’re thinking: Make an indicator mark, for clearance, create the clearance and install the roll pin to anchor the roll pin in place. And would be thrown more back than to the side. Hardened, competition-grade ejector is left long at both ends so you can fit for different calibers and slide contours. In this short ejector case tube empties would leave the slide later than normal.
Some custom 1911s have short ejectors lime this as they are tuned to send the empties where the owner wants them. Using a roll-pin-starter punch to begin driving the pin in place will make installation much easier. Mr Ed just posted a picture of a short ejector.
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